Michelle's Long-Arm Table Runner
(also check out Michelle's blog post showing this method)
Directions:
Take a jelly roll and sort by colour.
Use 21 or 22 strips for a runner
Pieced on the longarm and quilt as you go with 42 inch strips or 21 inch half strips depending on
how you wish to cut out the table runners
Estimate the size you will need for your backing and load it on the frame.
Wind the backing so you can start the project from the bottom of the table runner backing
Loosely pile the batting on the take up bar and smooth the bottom part of the batting on the
bottom part of the backing.
Place one strip right side up on the lower part of the batting by the belly bar and smooth it onto
the batting.
Place the second strip right side down on the first strip and use the ruler to stitch a quarter inch
seam along the upper edge.
Flip the second strip up towards the take up bar and finger press the seam flat.
Put another 3rd strip right side down on the second and stitch with a ruler.
Quilt as desired on the top of the stripped piece and take photos if you wish to replicate the
designs on the other half of the table runner.
Once you have added the number of strips you wish, take the quilted piece off the frame
Then trim into runner size
You can also use the half size strips rather than the 42 inch length
Must put on the ruler foot and the ruler base for the quilt as you go projects.
Start at the bottom of the quilt so you can use the ruler to flatten the fabric and hold the edges
steady and together
Do not have the quilt sandwich too tight on the frame. Michelle showed how she can grasp the
top of her finger from under the quilt sandwich.
(also check out Michelle's blog post showing this method)
Directions:
Take a jelly roll and sort by colour.
Use 21 or 22 strips for a runner
Pieced on the longarm and quilt as you go with 42 inch strips or 21 inch half strips depending on
how you wish to cut out the table runners
Estimate the size you will need for your backing and load it on the frame.
Wind the backing so you can start the project from the bottom of the table runner backing
Loosely pile the batting on the take up bar and smooth the bottom part of the batting on the
bottom part of the backing.
Place one strip right side up on the lower part of the batting by the belly bar and smooth it onto
the batting.
Place the second strip right side down on the first strip and use the ruler to stitch a quarter inch
seam along the upper edge.
Flip the second strip up towards the take up bar and finger press the seam flat.
Put another 3rd strip right side down on the second and stitch with a ruler.
Quilt as desired on the top of the stripped piece and take photos if you wish to replicate the
designs on the other half of the table runner.
Once you have added the number of strips you wish, take the quilted piece off the frame
Then trim into runner size
You can also use the half size strips rather than the 42 inch length
Must put on the ruler foot and the ruler base for the quilt as you go projects.
Start at the bottom of the quilt so you can use the ruler to flatten the fabric and hold the edges
steady and together
Do not have the quilt sandwich too tight on the frame. Michelle showed how she can grasp the
top of her finger from under the quilt sandwich.
Memory
Folders for Alberta Children's Hospital (ACH)
These
folders are used to hold selected pamphlets and they are then given to families
who have recently had a child die. As of
2010 we are providing about 120 a year to the Bereavement and Palliative Care
program at ACH.
They are a
tri-fold made of fabric with small “pockets” on the inside to hold the
information. We use any suitable
material (cotton, poly-cotton). The
social workers prefer fabric that has hearts, stars or clouds. It cannot be too bright though we do use
reds, pinks and blues predominately.
The folders
have been sandwiched, quilted, bound and are closed with ties of ribbon.
If you see
something that may be suitable by all means buy it and save your bills, you can
be reimbursed by the program. Donations
are always welcome.
Fabric Cutting:
1. For the body of the folder cut a strip 12 ½
inches across the width of the fabric (this will later be trimmed to 11 ½
inches wide after quilting). Cut along the fold line so now you will have two
pieces 12 ½ by approximately 21 inches. This provides a back and a front for one folder.
2. Cut your batting to the size of your
folder pieces (12 ½ by approximately 21 inches).
3. Cut a strip 6 inches wide across the Width
of Fabric. This provides two inner pockets. You use only one per folder.
4. Cut two strips the Width of Fabric for your binding. These can be cut to the size you prefer for
your binding method (i.e. 2 to 2 ½ inches)
5. Ribbon: I use ¼ or ½ inch wide ribbon. Cut two pieces 8 inches long.
Sewing Instructions:
1. Take the large WOF x 12 ½ inches
pieces of fabric and layer batting between to make your quilting sandwich. Quilt
the layers together as you would a placemat.
This may be done using free motion or your walking foot in a serpentine
pattern or cross hatching pattern for example.
2. Trim the selvage and ends. Square up and trim the quilted piece to
measure 11 ½ inches wide by approximately 20 long.
3. Take one pocket section, fold down ¼ inch from the top and press. Fold down another ¼ inch to encase the raw
edge. Edge stitch to hold these layers
together. This will form the top edge
of the pocket.
4. Place the raw edge of the pocket
along the bottom edge of your quilted piece and pin into place. Trim the excess from the sides of your pocket
as needed. Stitch a ¼ inch seam line along the edge to hold the pocket in
place. Reinforce the top of the pocket
at both ends by back stitching in place.
5. Measure the length of your piece and divide by three to mark the placement of
the fold lines in your folder. The fold lines
need to be stitched from the top to the
bottom edge of the folder. (Hint: I find it easier to simply fold the
quilted piece in three starting with the right side fold to the left and then
the left folded to the right to make the top of your folder. Adjusting to make sure all the layers are
even. Then I mark the fold lines at the
top and bottom edge of the folder with pins to use as a guide when I stitch.)
You may wish to use a ruler and chalk liner to mark the placement of the
stitching line as a guide prior to machine stitching.
6. Stitch through your quilted piece and
across the pockets from top to bottom
along your marked lines. This will form
three pockets on the inside of your folder.
Reinforce the tops of the pockets with a few back stitches.
7. Now it is time to add the first piece
of ribbon. Fold the top side of the folder along its side edge to determine the middle
and mark with a pin. (Hint: this will be
just above the top of the inside pocket).
Centre one edge of your piece of ribbon on the top of the folder. Baste in
place along the seam line. The edge of
the ribbon will be caught in the sewing of the binding strip in the next
step. (Hint: I find it a good idea to
pin the loose length of the ribbon to the body of the folder so it doesn’t get
caught elsewhere when I am sewing on the binding.)
8. Add binding using your preferred
method.
9. Close the folder in three. Now is the time to add the second piece of
ribbon. Line up the second piece of
ribbon on the back of the folder along the stitched fold line
so it matches with the top ribbon (on the top flap of the folder). Stitch in place along the previous stitching
line used to create the fold line. Tie
the ribbon so the folder will close. (Hint:
I like to fold over the end of the ribbon before stitching in place so it has a
finished edge. I stitch along the fold
line over the ribbon three times to be sure it is secure and will not come
undone when the ribbons are tied)
You are
finished. Thanks for participating in
this project. (Linda will deliver any completed folders to ACH)
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